Marc Harrison is painting Jay’s Riot Quest Models and blogging about the experience. You can visit his website (www.thepainteddwarf.com) or Facebook page (www.facebook.com/the.painted.dwarf/) Marc is always looking for more commission work!

Riot Quest Painting Blog #9: Painting Black Bella, Duchess of Dread, By Marc Harrison

I will be going through each step of how I paint Black Bella in my level two table top quality. I will paint and finish each section of the miniature as I go.

Terminology:

Gunk – I mix gunk in a 15ml bottle using the following:
• 1.25 tsp Distilled Water
• 1 tsp Liquitex Flow Improver
• .25 tsp Liquitex Drying Retarder
I like to use gunk to loosen up paint when I base coat and slow the drying time. I am in North West Wyoming and it is dry here, so I need to increase the working time of my paints. Formulas for gunk can vary depending on the painter and humidity.

Layering – Layering is where I apply layers of different colors, with each layer being closer to the final color of the transition than the previous one. I generally like to mix one-part paint with two-to-three-parts Liquitex Fluid medium, and one-part water or gunk when I layer. Layering is my preferred method of applying paint to a miniature.

Glazing – Glazing is where I water down ink or paint to the point of being translucent, allowing previous layers of paint to show through.

Washing – I often use premade washes, or create a wash by mixing paint or ink with medium and water. Mixing one-part paint to three-parts medium and five-parts water is a good starting point for making a wash.

Dry Brushing – Dry brushing is where I use an old brush or a brush designed for dry brushing to apply highlighting to a miniature. To drybrush, I apply paint to my brush and then dry the brush on a paper towel. I then drag the dry bristles across the miniature leaving paint on the highest points. Dry brushing is messy and should be done early in the painting stage.

Base Coating – Base Coating is where I use paint with a drop of gunk to establish a foundation of color on a miniature. I generally like to base cote in my mid-tone, shade, and work my way back up to the highlights.

Reclaiming – Reclaiming is where I reclaim a mid-tone color after applying a wash.

Lining – Lining is where I create the darkest shadows on a miniature. I also use lining to separate sections of a miniature when transitioning to another color. To line I use a sharp brush and trace along the lines of the miniature I want the darkest. Some painters refer to this technique as Dark Lining.

Wet Blending – Wet Blending is where I mix my colors on the miniature and not on my dry pallet. I apply colors next to each other and then using a second, clean brush with water I blend the two colors together. I generally prefer to layer unless I am working on something like a warjack or tank where there are large flat surfaces.

Step 1 – Painting the Face and Pants

I use the following materials:

• P3 Menoth White Highlight
• Gunk
• .03 Micron Pen, Black
• Reaper Rosy Shadow
• Reaper Rosy Base
• Reaper Rosy Highlight
• P3 Coal Black
• P3 Flesh Wash
• P3 Bad Bruise
• P3 Morrow White
• P3 Piggy Purple Ink
• GW Nuln Oil
• Liquitex Fluid Medium
• Distilled Water
• P3 Battlefield Brown

I do the following:

• Paint the eye using Menoth White Highlight with a drop of gunk.
• Base Coat the skin areas using Rosy Shadow with a drop of gunk. I paint up to, not over the eye.
• Base Coat the eye patch using Coal Black and a drop of gunk.
• Base Coat the pants with Bad Bruise
• Use a micron pen to dot the eye.
• Wash the skin surfaces with flesh wash.
• Wash the eye patch and pants with Nuln Oil.
• Layer a highlight on the skin using a mixture of one-part Rosy Base, two-parts medium, and one-part water.
• Layer a second highlight on the skin using a mixture of one-part Rosy Highlight, two-parts medium, and one-part water.
• Glaze the skin areas with a mixture of one-part Flesh Wash and three-parts water.
• Reclaim the base coat on the pants by layering a mixture of one-part Bad Bruise and one-part medium.
• Add one-part morrow white to the Bad Bruise mixture and layer a final highlight on the pants.
• Glaze the pants with a mixture of one-part Bad Bruise and two-parts water.
• Base Coat the eye brow with a mixture of one-part Battlefield Brown and one-part water.
• Layer a highlight on the eye patch with a mixture of one-part Coal Black and one-part medium.

Step 2 – Painting the Metal Surfaces

I use the following materials:
• Reaper Shadowed Steel
• Reaper Honed Steel
• Reaper Polished Silver
• Reaper Aged Pewter
• Reaper Old Bronze
• Reaper Tarnished Brass
• Reaper Grey Liner
• Gunk
• GW Nuln Oil
• Vallejo Thinner

I do the following:

• Base Coat the sword’s and armor using Shadowed Steel.
• Base Coat the sword’s hilts with Aged Pewter.
• Wash the metal surfaces using Nuln Oil.
• Drybrush over the sword’s and armor using Honed Steel.
• Drybrush over the sword’s hilts with Old Bronze.
• Line the areas of metal I want the deepest shadows using a mixture of one-part Grey Liner and one-part Gunk.
• Layer a highlight on the sword’s and armor using a mixture of one-part Polished Silver and one-part thinner.
• Layer a highlight on the sword’s hilts using a mixture of one-part Tarnished Brass and one-part thinner.
Note: I will come back later and pick out the metal buckles on the belts. I will also apply a second highlight using P3 Quick Silver after sealer has been applied to the miniature.

Step 3 – White Leather

I use the following materials:

• Reaper Linen White
• Reaper Leather White
• Reaper Ghost White
• Reper Sepia Liner
• Gunk
• GW Agrax Earthshade
• Liquitex Fluid Medium
• FW White Ink
• Distilled Water

I do the following:

• Base Coat the leather areas using Linen White.
• Wash the leather areas using Agrax Earthshade.
• Line the darkest shadows using one-part Sepia Liner and one-part gunk.
• Layer a highlight on the leather areas using one-part Leather White, two-parts medium, and one-part water.
• Layer a second highlight on the leather areas using one-part Ghost White, two-parts medium, and one-part water.
• Glaze the leather areas using one-part white ink and five-parts water.

Part 4 – Leather Belts, Boots, and Gloves

I use the following materials:

• Reaper Ruddy Leather
• Reaper Oiled Leather
• Reaper Burt Orange
• Reaper Brown Liner
• P3 Brown Ink
• Gunk
• Liquitex Fluid Medium
• Distilled Water

I do the following:

• Base Coat using Oiled Leather and a drop of gunk.
• Wash using a mixture of one-part Ruddy Leather, three-parts medium, and four-parts water.
• Line using a mixture of one-part sepia liner, one-part brown liner, and one-part gunk.
• Reclaim by layering a mixture one-part Oiled Leather, two-parts medium, and one-part water.
• Layer a highlight using a mixture of one-part Burnt Orange, three-parts medium, and one-part water.
• Glaze using a mixture of one-part Brown Ink and four-parts water.

Part 5 – Painting Purple Hair

I use the following materials:

• P3 Beaten Purple
• P3 Exile Blue
• P3 Arcane Blue
• P3 Morrow White
• P3 Piggy Purple Ink
• Gunk
• Distilled Water
• Liquitex Fluid Medium

I do the following:

• Base coat using a mixture of Beaten Purple and a drop of gunk.
• Wash using a mixture of one-part Beaten Purple with three-parts Exile Blue, and eight-parts water.
• Reclaim by layering Beaten Purple.
• Layer a highlight with a mixture of one-part Beaten Purple, one-part Arcane Blue, two-parts medium, and one-part water.
• Layer a second highlight by adding one-part Morrow White and one-part medium to my previous mixture.
• Glaze using a mixture of one-part Piggy Purple ink and five-parts water.

Step 5 – Brass Buckles

I use the following materials:

• P3 Brass Balls
• P3 Molten Bronze
• Vallejo Thinner

I do the following:

• Base coat the buckles using a mixture of one-part Brass Balls and one-part thinner.
• Wash the buckles using a mixture of one-part Molten Bronze and ten-parts thinner.

I will come back after the miniature has been sealed and do the final highlights. I like to do this with Formula P3 metallic paints. The P3 paints have a satin finish that will make the metal shine slightly against the matt varnish I apply to finished miniatures.

In Part 10, I will paint Boomhowler, Solo Artist.

You can buy Riot Quest models here:

LINK