Marc Harrison is painting Jay’s Riot Quest Models and blogging about the experience. You can visit his website (www.thepainteddwarf.com) or Facebook page (www.facebook.com/the.painted.dwarf/) Marc is always looking for more commission work!

Riot Quest Painting Blog #12: Painting J.A.I.M.s, By Marc Harrison

I will be going through each step of how I paint J.A.I.M.s in my level two table top quality. Jay has asked that I paint his J.A.I.M.s with a brass patina theme to match his existing Convergence miniatures. I will paint and finish each section of the miniature as I go.

Terminology:

Gunk – I mix gunk in a 15ml bottle using the following:
• 1.25 tsp Distilled Water
• 1tsp Liquitex Flow Improver
• .25 tsp Liquitex Drying Retarder
I like to use gunk to loosen up paint when I base coat and slow the drying time. I am in Northwest Wyoming and it is dry here, so I need to increase the working time of my paints. Formulas for gunk can vary depending on the painter and humidity.

Layering – Layering is where I apply layers of different colors, with each layer being closer to the final color of the transition than the previous one. I generally like to mix one-part paint with two-to-three-parts Liquitex Fluid medium, and one-part water or gunk when I layer.

Glazing – Glazing is where I water down ink or paint to the point of being translucent, allowing previous layers of paint to show through.

Washing – I often use premade washes, or create a wash by mixing paint or ink with medium and water. Mixing one-part paint to three-parts medium and five-parts water is a good starting point for making a wash.

Dry Brushing – Dry brushing is where I use an old brush or a brush designed for dry brushing to apply highlighting to a miniature.

Base Coating – Base Coating is where I use paint with a drop of gunk to establish a foundation of color on a miniature. I generally like to base cote in my mid-tone, shade, and work my way back up to the highlights.

Reclaiming – Reclaiming is where I reclaim a mid-tone color after applying a wash.

Lining – Lining is where I create the darkest shadows on a miniature. I also use lining to separate sections of a miniature when transitioning to another color. When I line, I use a sharp brush to trace the areas of a miniature I want the darkest.

Wet Blending – Wet Blending is where I mix my colors on the miniature and not on my dry pallet. I apply colors next to each other and then using a second, clean brush with water I blend the two colors together. I generally prefer to layer unless I am working on something like a warjack or tank where there are large flat surfaces.

Step 1 – Painting the Brass Patina Metal Surfaces

I use the following materials:

• P3 Menoth White Highlight
• Reaper Coppery Orange
• Reaper Emerald Green
• Reaper Grey Liner
• Reaper Blackened Steel
• Reaper Tarnished Steel
• Reaper True Silver
• Gunk
• GW Nuln Oil
• GW Nihilakh Oxide
• Vallejo Thinner

I do the following:

• Base coat the eyes and areas I want to glow with a mixture of one-part Menoth White Highlight and one-part Gunk. I do this now to make the areas easier to see.
• Base coat the brass patina areas with a mixture of two-parts Emerald Green, one-part Coppery Orange, and one-part thinner.
• Base coat the face, hands, and joints by adding two-parts Coppery Orange and one-part thinner to my previous mixture. I paint up to, not over the eyes.
• Line the joints using a mixture of one-part Grey Liner and one-part Gunk. This step is time consuming and I allow my mixture to dry completely before proceeding.
• Base coat the knives using Blackened Steel.
• Wash the miniature using Nuln Oil. I allow to dry completely before proceeding.
• Reclaim the base coat by dry brushing a mixture of two-parts Emerald Green and one-part Coppery Orange.
• Drybrush a highlight by adding one-part Coppery Orange to my previous mixture.
• Drybrush a second highlight by adding on-part Coppery Orange to my previous mixture.
• Layer a final highlight with a mixture of one-part Coppery Orange and one-part thinner.
• Line the joints and anywhere I want to look corroded using Nihilakh Oxide. Areas I get too heavy with the Nihilakh Oxide I simply dampen my brush and blend them out.
• Glaze the areas I applied Nihilakh Oxide to with Nuln Oil.
Note: The white I painted earlier was lost in some areas. I often paint white in this manner to help me see the areas I want to pop later. I will be going over the areas again.

Step 2 – Painting the glowing effects

I use the following materials:
• FW White Ink
• P3 Arcane Blue
• P3 Meredius Blue
• Liquitex matt medium
• P3 Blue Ink
• Distilled Water

I do the following:

• Base coat the eyes again using White Ink.
• Wash the areas I want to glow with a mixture of one-part White Ink and one-part water and allow to dry.
• Wash the areas again with a mixture of one-part Arcane Blue, two-parts medium, and four-parts water and allow the dry.
• Wash the areas again with a mixture of one-part Meredius Blue, three-parts medium, and ten-parts water and allow to dry.
• Glaze the areas with a mixture of one-part White Ink and ten-parts water and allow to dry.
• Glaze the areas with a mixture of one-part Blue Ink and ten-parts water.

Step 4 – Knives and Steel Areas

I feel I there is too much brass on this miniature. I am going to paint the knives, face, arms, and joints in steel to help offset the brass color. I will also make the steel areas look mildly corroded.

I use the following:

• Reaper Shadowed Steel
• Reaper Honed Steel
• Reaper Polished Steel
• Vallejo Thinner
• GW Nuln Oil
• P3 Bloodstone
• Distilled Water

I do the following:

• Base coat using Shadowed Steel.
• Layer a highlight using a mixture of one-part honed steel and one-part thinner.
• Layer a second highlight using a mixture of one-part Polished Steel and one-part thinner.
• Wash the areas using Nuln Oil.
• Glaze the areas with a mixture of one-part Bloodstone and ten-parts water to give a lightly corroded effect.
Note: I will come back after I have applied varnish to this miniature and add some addition highlight to the metal areas to help make the features pop.

Step 4 – Painting the Flagstone Base

I use the following Materials:

• Reaper Stone Grey
• Reaper Shadowed Stone
• Reaper Weathered Stone
• Reaper Grey Liner
• Gunk
• Liquitex Matt Medium
• Distilled Water
• P3 Thamar Black

I do the Following:

• Base coat the stones with Stone Grey.
• Wash the stones with a mixture of one-part Shadowed Stone, three-parts medium, and five-parts water. I allow to dry completely.
• Wash the cracks using a mixture of one-part grey liner and ten-parts water.
• Reclaim the base coat by dry brushing with Stone Grey.
• Drybrush a highlight using Weathered Stone.
• Base coat the lip to the base using Thamar Black. I apply two coats.

After I finish the remaining wave one riot quest miniatures, I will do the following:

• Add a front arc to the base.
• Varnish the miniature.
• Add additional highlights to the metal areas.

In Part 13, I will paint Gorman the Mad.

You can buy Riot Quest items here:

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