Marc Harrison is painting Jay's Marvel: Crisis Protocol models and blogging about the experience. You can visit his website (www.thepainteddwarf.com) or Facebook page (www.facebook.com/the.painted.dwarf/) for additional information. Mark is always looking for more commission work!

Marvel Crisis Protocol Painting Blog Part Six: Painting the Hulk, By Marc Harrison

I will be doing an overview of how I painted the Hulk for the Marvel Crisis Protocol (MCP) game. I won’t be going into a high level of detail, mostly outlining the colors I used and sharing photos of the stages of assembling and painting the hulk.

When I paint, I generally use layering and glazing techniques. I will thin my paints by using gunk (mixture of water, drying retarder, and flow improver), water, and/or Liquitex fluid matt medium. I use Vallejo thinner when thinning metallic paints.

Step 1 – Cleaning and Assembly

I use the following to clean the miniature:

• Simple Green
• Water
• Nylon Brush
• Brass Brush

I soak the miniature on the spurs in a mixture of one-part simple green and three-parts water for at least 30 minutes. Soaking the miniature in this manner will dissolve any mold release on the miniature. I then remove the spurs form the soak and scrub using a nylon or brass brush, leaving the parts on the spurs. I then rinse under cold water and allow to completely dry.

I use the following to remove the parts from the spurs and assemble the miniature:

• Flush Cutters
• Pliers
• Super Glue
• GW Mold Line Remover
• Hobby Knife
• Sanding Sticks
• Clamps
• GW Liquid Green Stuff
• 1/16” Brass Rod
• Pin Vice with 1/16” Drill Bit

I follow the provided instruction and assemble the miniature. I use flush cutter to remove the parts from the spurs and clean the injection points using a mold line remover, hobby knife, or sanding stick. I test fit each part before applying super glue and clamp any part I can allowing several minutes for the glue to set up and dry.

Once the miniature is together, I do the following:

• Drill 1/16” holes in the feet and insert 1/16” brass rod.
• Trim the rod leaving roughly 1/16” of rod showing.
• Apply a little paint to the tips of the rods and press the miniature down on the base, marking where I need to drill the base.
• Drill 1/16” holes in the base using the marks.
• Test fit then glue the miniature onto its base. (The rods will add strength to the connection and help keep the miniature from separating from its base should it be dropped or mishandled.)
• Using liquid green stuff, I fill in the seams on the miniature and smooth out with my finger and a hobby knife.

Step 2 – Priming

I use the following:

• Hand Hold
• Stick Tacky
• Vallejo Black Primer
• Vallejo Grey Primer
• Vallejo White Primer
• Vallejo Airbrush Thinner
• Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver
• Air Brush
Note: I use two-parts primer to one-part thinner, and one-part flow improver when priming. I apply primer lightly.

I do the following to prime the miniature:

• Clean the miniature again using compressed air removing any dust or derbies.
• Mount the miniature onto a hand hold using stick tacky.
• Prime the miniature black using an air brush from roughly 12 inches away.
• Prime the miniature grey using an air brush held at roughly a 45-degree angle, 12 inches away priming all around the miniature.
• Prime the miniature white using an air brush held at roughly a 60-degree angle, 12 inches away priming the upper parts of the miniature.

Step 3 - Painting the Miniature

I use the following paints to paint the miniature:

Skin

• P3 Wurm Green
• P3 Isoan Green
• P3 Nectotite Green
• P3 Sulfuric Yellow
• Reaper Green Liner
• P3 Green Ink

Pants

• P3 Beaten Purple
• P3 Exile Blue
• P3 Arcane Blue
• P3 Morrow White
• P3 Piggy Purple Ink
• P3 Brass Balls (Button on Pants)

Hair

• P3 Coal Black
• P3 Menoth White
• GW Nuln Oil

Eyes and Teeth

• P3 Menoth White
• P3 Morrow White
• .03 Micron Pin – Black
• GW Nuln Oil

Base

• Reaper Stone Grey
• Reaper Shadowed Stone
• Reaper Weathered Stone
• Reaper Grey Liner
• GW Agrax Earthshade
• Reaper Coppery Orange
• Reaper Emerald Green
• GW Nihliakh Oxide
• GW Nuln Oil
• P3 Thamar Black

Wurm Green Base Coat

Base Coat on the Miniature

Shading on the Miniature

Dark Lining on the Miniature

Highlights on the Miniature

Glazing on the Miniature

Step 4 – Applying Varnish

I use the following to varnish the miniature:

• Vallejo Matt Varnish
• Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver
• Vallejo Airbrush Thinner
• Airbrush
Note: I use three-parts varnish, one-part flow improver, and one part thinner when airbrushing the varnish.

I apply the varnish using an airbrush from roughly 12 inches away. I apply two thin coats of varnish to the miniature.

Conclusion
Hulk was a fun miniature to paint. The miniature assembled well and painted up nicely. One thing I would do differently on future hulks is to spend more time cleaning up and sculpting along the glue lines on this miniature using green stuff or similar sculpting putty. I though I had the gaps filled, but after painting could still see the gaps.

In part seven, I will assemble and paint M.O.D.O.K.

You can buy Marvel: Crisis Protocol miniatures here:

LINK